Chemoenzymatic indican for light-driven denim dyeing

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  • Gonzalo Nahuel Bidart
  • David Teze
  • Charlotte Uldahl Jansen
  • Eleonora Pasutto
  • Natalia Putkaradze
  • Anna Mamusu Sesay
  • Folmer Fredslund
  • Lo Leggio, Leila
  • Olafur Ögmundarson
  • Sumesh Sukumara
  • Katrine Qvortrup
  • Ditte Hededam Welner

Blue denim, a billion-dollar industry, is currently dyed with indigo in an unsustainable process requiring harsh reducing and alkaline chemicals. Forming indigo directly in the yarn through indican (indoxyl-β-glucoside) is a promising alternative route with mild conditions. Indican eliminates the requirement for reducing agent while still ending as indigo, the only known molecule yielding the unique hue of blue denim. However, a bulk source of indican is missing. Here, we employ enzyme and process engineering guided by techno-economic analyses to develop an economically viable drop-in indican synthesis technology. Rational engineering of PtUGT1, a glycosyltransferase from the indigo plant, alleviated the severe substrate inactivation observed with the wildtype enzyme at the titers needed for bulk production. We further describe a mild, light-driven dyeing process. Finally, we conduct techno-economic, social sustainability, and comparative life-cycle assessments. These indicate that the presented technologies have the potential to significantly reduce environmental impacts from blue denim dyeing with only a modest cost increase.

OriginalsprogEngelsk
Artikelnummer1489
TidsskriftNature Communications
Vol/bind15
Udgave nummer1
Antal sider11
ISSN2041-1723
DOI
StatusUdgivet - 2024

Bibliografisk note

Publisher Copyright:
© The Author(s) 2024.

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